Binding: Serger Quilt part III (finally)

I apologize for this taking so long.  Has anyone finished the quilt body?  Is anyone ready for binding yet?  Please send me a picture when you’re finished with your baby quilt. So, why put on a quilt binding with your serger?  First, it is fast.  Second, you end up with an evenly wide seam allowance, which means when you wrap your binding to the other side, your binding is even.  Third, if you use fusible thread in your lower looper, you fuse the binding down to the other side of your quilt and it holds it there, without pins, for you to sew down with your favorite sewing technique, either hand or machine. If you are just joining us, you can find Part 1 of this baby quilt here, and Part 2 is here.

Serger Quilt Binding

Materials: 1/2 yard binding fabric for straight grain binding decorative serger thread

  • if using embroidery thread, you need 2 spools of at least one color

water soluble glue, such as Sewline glue stitck, Scotch permanent glue stick, Elmers blue gel glue, or equivalent Construction: Cut four (4) 2 1/2 x WOF strips of binding fabric.

  • If quilt is larger than planned, cut 5 strips.  Cut one strip in half and sew each half onto the end of one of the other strips, so that two of the strips are longer than the other two.

To serge strips together: Lay one strip end perpendicular to the other strip end, right sides together with bottom strip going east-west and top strip going north-south. binding 1 If desired, draw a line from upper left to lower right of the square formed by the intersection of the two strips. Serge with the needle stitches falling on this line and with the knife cutting off the extra. binding 2

binding 3

Press seam to one side.

binding 4

Fold strips in half lengthwise and press. I wanted to add a piped detail to my binding, so I used the wave stitch on my serger.  You could also use a rolled hem or a narrow hem just as well.  Set your cutting or stitch width to the widest setting you can for the stitch you select, and set your stitch length to form a satin stitch, probably around 1.5mm. Although I like the sheen of embroidery thread on rolled hems, I find it is too fine for good coverage.  I fix this by putting two (2) threads through the same looper.  Since I have a Baby Lock, that means putting them both into the same looper port.  On a different brand serger just thread the loopers with the two threads as though they were 1 thread.  It works for all rolled hem applications.

fancy threads

2 in each looper

I then serged the wave rolled hem on the folded edge of the long strips of binding.  I chose to use a squared off binding, but you could also try this with a mitered binding.  I worried that the piped effect might get in the way with mitering, so let me know if you try it out!

Place the raw edge of the shorter piece of binding against the edge of the WRONG side of the quilt sandwich, and use a 4 thread overlock stitch, only trimming enough of the edge to even it out, to serge the binding to the quilt.  Repeat this on the other short edge.

binding attached

Fold the binding to the front of the quilt and use water soluble glue to hold the binding in place while you use a sewing machine to stitch in the ditch of the faux piping to attach the binding to the quilt.  Trim the ends even with the long edges of the quilt using a rotary cutter or scissors.  Why didn’t I let the serger trim the ends?  I wanted to be sure the serger didn’t get hung up on the multiple fabric and thread layers.

binding topstitched

You can also make this quicker by using a fusible thread in your lower looper.  Then when you press the binding to the finished side, you fuse the binding in place so it holds still while you stitch it down.

Repeat this process with the long strips of binding on the long edges. Make sure that the binding extends about 2 inches beyond the quilt at either end.  But what to do with those ends when you stitch it down?  The piped edging made it too thick for a traditional fold at the end. Fold the tail back on itself to the right side of the quilt, tuck the piped edge underneath the tail, then fold the binding down over the tail and stitch it in place.

binding corner 1 bound corner top

Beautiful, embellished binding, both front and back.

bound corner final

back of binding

Sewing and crafting classes online

Have you heard about Craftsy? If not, be sure to read on. If you have, I hope you’ve had a chance to take one of their wonderful, reasonably priced courses, especially since once you buy a course, you can watch the videos as many times as you want over any time frame. Learn in the comfort of your own home at your own speed. Not only that, but they have free classes you can download to try before you buy.  They also have apps for your tablets and handheld devices so you can learn anywhere.

My favorite way to watch video courses is to watch them all the way through first, then go to my sewing machine and try things out, referencing the video along the way. You may have a different style, which is why these courses are so wonderful; they fit everyone’s learning style in some fashion.

The downside to independent learning, of course, is the lack of social interaction, either with your fellow classmates or with a teacher from whom you would like feedback on that seam you just sewed. Craftsy and YouTube and other sites like this will never completely replace the classes offered by qualified teachers at your local dealerships and sewing machine shops, but they sure expand the range of who can learn and when, making them a fabulous resource!

Go ahead, jump in! The water’s fine! Sewing, cake decorating, knitting, and on and on and on…

Here is what Craftsy has to say about itself:

What is Craftsy?
Craftsy is a worldwide craft community offering online classes. It also has a patterns marketplace where independent designers can sell their patterns; a supplies shop with great deals on yarn, fabric, and class kits; and a projects section where members share pictures of their latest craft successes. With over two million members and counting, Craftsy has something for just about everyone, in categories ranging from quilting, sewing, knitting, painting, photography, cooking, and more.

Why should I take a class online?
Online education isn’t just for schools and universities anymore. Craftsy courses provide you the convenience of a world-class instructor in your home, whenever you want to learn. Online education, no matter what subject, is a great alternative to in-person classes for a number of reasons.

With many online learning opportunities being on-demand, you are able to learn at your own pace, anytime. Online learning is a fantastic alternative to in-store craft classes for people with busy schedules or who have difficulty leaving the house. It also allows you to watch a troubling section over-and-over again, so you can see exactly how a technique is carried out, or refer back to your class for relevant concepts before beginning any new projects.

Quilt-as-you-go, Serger Quilt: tutorial Part 2: BORDERS

Last week we started a baby quilt by serger.  I hope some of you are sewing this along with me and will send me pictures of your completed project.

Part 1 ended here:

Fabric Preparation for Borders

Cut the following from Border 1 fabric AND from batting:

2 – 2 ½” x 30”*

2 – 2 ½” x 38”*

*Cut borders 2” longer than length needed.

Let’s put these borders on, shall we?

The reason I suggested you cut your borders 2″ longer than the length needed is to give you a little wiggle room at each end.  As we practice quilt-as-you-go by serger, I find that sometimes my fabric shifts at the beginning of my seam.  I have gotten to where this rarely happens any more, but this extra length will help alleviate that, if you find it happens to you.

CUT BACKING STRIPS:

I just realized I forgot to tell you to cut your backing strips as well, so now go ahead and cut 4 backing strips to match your border 1 and batting strips.  These backing strips might match the backing for the central square, but that is not necessary.  This is a perfect opportunity to have a pretty pieced backing.

The order of the borders, based on the measurements I gave above, is to serge the top and bottom borders first, followed by the side borders.

For serger quilt-as-you-go, you will layer your fabric from the table up as follows, with top raw edges matching:

Backing strip: RIGHT side UP   (green in picture)

Quilt sandwich: RIGHT side UP   (pieced in picture)

Border fabric: WRONG side UP    (orange in picture)

Batting: on top.

border arrangement

The raw edges are not aligned in this picture, but you want to align them.

Start your border strips about 1″ before the central square.  Pin all layers together carefully.

*Pinning Recommendation:  I use LONG quilting pins when I serge.  I will often pin parallel to the edge, which keeps my pins out of my knife, but if I pin perpendicular to  the edge I place my pins so they hang off the edge of the fabric about an inch.  That way they are both easy to see and easy to remove.  NEVER serge over a pin.  I have only had to replace my knife once in 12 years, and that was after serging over 1 pin.  That is all it takes.

**If  you find your fabric edges slip and slide around despite pinning, use glue in the seam allowances to hold them together.  I use glue stick or Elmer’s blue gel a lot, especially when serging.  If the glue does not dry fast enough, iron the two fabric layers together as you glue and it will dry quickly.

Serger Setting for SERGING SEAMS:

4 Thread Overlock
Stitch Width: Widest Setting
Stitch Length: 3 mm

Serge the long seam trimming off an even amount.

Flip the border pieces out from the center and press on both sides.  Press to flatten seam as much as possible, pulling on the fabric against the seam to be sure it was caught in the stitching everywhere.

flip borders out 1

flip borders out 2

Change serger stitch or cutting width to narrowest width and serge baste the long edge, without trimming, to hold the 3 layers (backing, batting, and border) together.  * As you serge, continue to smooth the fabric out from the seam to be sure the raw edges meet and all layers are caught in the basting.

Return stitch or cutting width back to widest setting.

Repeat for opposite border.

You can cut off the 1″ of border that hangs off each end with a rotary cutter to square up the center, or cut it off when serging the side borders.

Arrange the fabrics the same way as explained above for the side borders, serge, press, and baste outer edge.

BORDER 2

Cut border 2 fabric, batting, and backing strips as follows:

2 – 4″ x 32″

2 – 4″ x 42″

Repeat the same procedure with the first borders.  When you are finished your outer edge should be completely squared up, basted and ready for binding.  If your quilt needs additional squaring up, it is fine to trim away some of the serger basting.  If you trim away all of the stitching in an area, rebaste that section without trimming on the serger to hold the layers together.

BINDING Prep:

Coming up in the last installment of this series will be adding a straight grain binding with a faux serger piping.

1/2 yard binding fabric.

Cut 5 strips 2 1/2″ x WOF (Width of fabric).

Thread: at least 2 spools of 40 wt. polyester or rayon embroidery thread, or 1 spool of a 12 weight decorative thread like Sulky Blendables, Jean Stitch, or Pearl Crown Rayon.

Part 3 Binding here.

Until next time,

Sherilyn

Quilt-as-you-go, Serger Quilt: tutorial

My recent poll regarding which type of project I should design was inconclusive.  As I was straightening up an area of my sewing room, I found a lone charm pack, which immediately told me it wanted to be a serger baby quilt.  Perfect timing!  These instructions will be in three (3) sections:

  1. Fabric requirements and Central Block
  2. Borders and Serger Quilt As You Go
  3. Serger Piped Binding

This is a small, simple quilt, but all the techniques are the same on a larger quilt.

Let’s roll…

Quilt ‘n’ Serge Baby Quilt

 Image

Fabric Requirements and Central Block

Fabric Requirements:

1 Charm Pack – minimum 42 – 5” squares

1/3 yard 44” fabric for border 1

2/3 yard 44” fabric for border 2

2 yards 44” fabric for backing*

1 crib sized batting**

½ yard 44” fabric for straight grain binding

Other useful tools:

Rotary cutter, rotary ruler, rotary mat, Kwik Klip, quilter’s safety pins, ditch stitching foot for sewing machine,  decorative threads for serger, temporary glue stick, fusible thread

* Backing can be pieced using 1 yard, 1/3 yard, and 2/3 yard pieces for the three (3) different sections.  This makes a more interesting back and helps use up scraps.

**A thin cotton batting or cotton blend batting is the easiest to use for the serger quilt-as-you-go technique.  Thicker battings will be easier to use after you gain experience with the technique.

Note:  For this quilt, consistent seam allowances are more important than getting an exact ¼”, making it an excellent first serger quilt project.  Pay attention to when to run the fabric edge along the inside of the knife, not trimming off any fabric, and when to trim an even amount of fabric.  One of the joys of using a serger is how easy it is to have accurate seam intersections.

Image

Tip: Practice running the fabric along the inside edge of the knife without locking the knife out of the way.  The knife is the guide for the fabric edge, so if you lock it out of the way, there is no longer an identifiable mark to place the fabric edge.

Central Block

Serger Setting for SERGING SEAMS:

4 Thread Overlock
Stitch Width: Widest Setting
Stitch Length: 2.5 – 3 mm

1)     Lay out 5” charm blocks in a pleasing arrangement of 7 rows with 6 blocks in each row.

2)     Serge blocks together in each row, first serging two (2) neighboring squares together and then serging the pairs together to complete the row.  Run fabric along inside of knife; do not trim edge.

3)     Press all seams flat to set stitches.

4)     Press the seams in neighboring rows in opposite directions.

Image

5)    Serge the rows together, locking the seam intersections together with the seam allowances going in opposite directions.

Image

6)     Press all seams flat  to set stitches.  Then press all seams in same direction.

7)     Measure the central block, which should be approximately 32” x 28”.  Cut 1 piece batting and 1 piece backing 2” larger in each dimension, i.e. 34” x 30”.

8)     Lay the backing fabric WRONG SIDE up on the table, Cover with the batting.  Lay the central block RIGHT SIDE up, centered over the batting.  Pin baste.

I used quilters safety pins and the Kwik Klip tool to make this process relatively quick and painless.

Image       Image

Image

9)     Use a stitch-in-the-ditch foot on the sewing machine to stitch in the ditch of each seam in the central block.

Image     Image

Image

NOTE:  It is possible to use chain stitching or cover stitching here to quilt the central block, if that is preferred.

Serger Setting for BASTING:

4 thread overlock
Stitch width:  narrowest setting
Stitch length: 4 mm

10)     Baste outer edge of central block to prepare for adding borders.  Mostly this should be running the fabric along the inside of the knife.  Knife may be used to trim some unevenness, but if there seems to be significant unevenness, check and square up with a rotary ruler and cutter first.

Fabric Preparation for Borders

Cut the following from Border 1 fabric AND from batting:

2 – 2 ½” x 30”*

2 – 2 ½” x 38”*

*Cut borders 2” longer than length needed.

Next time we will serge the borders on, so stay tuned.

Part 2 Borders here.  Part 3 Binding here.

Until then,

Sherilyn

Serger cover pattern for Kindle

I finally got to see the Kindle version of my serger cover pattern.  The formatting did not come out correctly at all.  I will be reformatting it and uploading a corrected version as soon as I can, so if you buy the book, don’t worry.  I’ll be fixing it.

 

Thank you for your patience.

Serger Cover or Sewing Machine Cover Pattern

Although I feel like I’ve been offline for forever, it’s actually only been a little over a month.  We are now finished with our travels, and I hope to start posting more regularly again.

Why did I name this post “Serger Cover or Sewing Machine Cover Pattern?”  Because I just published my Poppy Serger Cover pattern on Kindle.  You can find it at: http://www.amazon.com/Poppy-Serger-Sewing-Machine-ebook/dp/B008HV2106/ref=sr_1_1?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1341605215&sr=1-1&keywords=poppy+serger

As you might imagine, I am terribly excited.  But, do you want to know what’s even better?

The great news is:  For Prime members it is available for FREE through the lending library for the next 3 months.

And the BEST news is:  The pattern is available for FREE to everyone this weekend, July 7 and 8.  So, be sure to look it up on Saturday or Sunday to get your own FREE copy.

Although the cover looks complicated, it is actually very easy.  The book is full of lots of different techniques, from which you can pick and choose which you want to use on your cover, and which you would rather use some other time.

ENJOY!

Free Machine Embroidery and Serger Project

I’m so excited.  I am getting ready to send out my February newsletter, which will contain the last installment of the free directions for my beautiful serger cover or sewing machine cover.  It fits my Imagine serger and my Brother PC8500 sewing machine.  With 2 more inches in width, which could be added easily to the black strips, it would fit my Pfaff CV.Creating, producing, and then writing the instructions for this cover has been a wonderful journey, and my sewing room has never looked so pretty. This cover is appropriate for all levels.  If you can operate your embroidery machine and serger, you can complete this project.

If you do not have a serger or embroidery machine, don’t worry.  I have re-written the directions for sewing machine only techniques as well.

If you have not yet signed up for my free newsletter, now is the perfect time.  The first two parts to the directions are posted for download on the group site, and the last of the directions will be sent out next week. This free project will be available through the end of February.  So, sign up now to learn all sort of new serger and embroidery techniques while you beautify your sewing room.

Sign up at: http://www.cherishedneedlecreations.com/home/newsletter

 

© Sherilyn Siegmund-Roach and Cherished Needle Creations

Materia Medica

by Chloe Sobejko

Plant Therapy Blog

A creative home for machine embroidery, sewing, and serger projects and techniques.

Keirsten's Kitchen

It's Paleo... ish

Notorious Beauty Blog

I believe in manicures. I believe in primping at leisure and wearing lipstick. I believe happy girls are the prettiest girls. -Audrey Hepburn

Cat Eyes Red Lips

Beauty, Fashion, Lifestyle

theimaginationmuscle

Birthplace to all ideas:please, let me share a few of my own.

adoptingjames

Read our Mission. Find out how you can help us adopt James.

Dresses & Me

I love to sew

knit the hell out

More obsessed with each passing stitch.

M&J Blog

A creative home for machine embroidery, sewing, and serger projects and techniques.

Blumenkinder Heirlooms

Gracious Living by the Yard

The Seeds of 3

Sewing, Gardening, and Homeschooling Adventures

Sewnhenge

Sewing Quilting Living Loving

WeAreDAR

To Give. Globally.

dianedziel

fashion design is also pattern making and sewing

%d bloggers like this: